5 restaurants where locals actually go in Guadeloupe

Refreshing, spicy, flavourful… Creole cuisine knows to honour its traditional roots while embracing modernity. Whether you fancy a trendy spot or rather eat with your feet in the sand, here is my selection of exceptional restaurants where you can sample the best of French West Indies food. 

1. An Tol La. The most traditional

In the heart of Carénage, the Point-à-Pitre working-class neighborhood, An Tol La serves the locals on their lunch break. This little hut faces the wharf and has quite a bit of charm. A select choice of local dishes made with fresh ingredients and flavored rum for when the sun sets. My favorite ? Grilled fish with kidney beans. Delicious!

An Tol La, Fouillole, 97110 Pointe-à-Pitre - Tél. : +590 (0)690 71 49 72

2. Le Vieux-Port. The cosiest

The Vieux Port has been constantly delivering on its promises since 1980. On the old harbour in Saint-François, the colourful hut sets an intimate mood, ideal for a date or a family dinner. Bernard and Odile, the establishment’s charming cooks, offer a refined and modern Creole cuisine. I try the classic chicken Colombo and a grilled dorado, both fresh and perfectly balanced. For dessert, I fell in love with their traditional coconut flan served with homemade caramel. This place is my go-to for a truly home cooked happy meal! 

Le Vieux Port, Rue Margagnan, (face au port de pêche), 97118 Saint-François - Tèl. : 05 90 88 46 60

3. Chez Henri. The most unfamiliar

Near the wharf on Saint Louis beach, the Marie-Galante born Henri offers modern French West Indies food in his namesake restaurant. My feet in the sand, I enjoy a feast of dorado fillo with local vegetables. At night, I come back for the “takeoff”, an aperitif of legendary iced rum accompanied by the sounds of live music. Definitely my favorite address of the island. 

Chez Henri, 8, Avenue des Caraïbes Saint-Louis, Marie Galante - Tèl. : 0590 97 04 57

4. Le Colombo. The most classic

The Colombo has been delivering the fleshiest and best-grilled lobsters of Grande-Terre since the seventies. Go to the Pointe-des-Châteaux, which faces the family-friendly Anse du Mancenillier beach to enjoy the most well-liked shellfish of the island. The Colombo is steeped in my childhood, and has no equivalent. A true legend !

Section la Coulée D 118, 97118, Saint François, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 590 88-5738

5. Les dents de la mer. The most international food truck

Tuna tataki, gluten-free tacos, dorado fillets, fresh fish tartar…. These aren’t on the menu of some organic bistro, but are served in Les Dents de la Mer, a local food truck started by a pair of local thirty-somethings, . They definitely deliver, and also serve, with a winning smile, delicious fresh juices. Everything that I love.

Les Dents de la Mer, Rue Henri Becquerel, Baie Mahault, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 (0)690 12-6689

New in  : 

4 restaurants with an exceptional view in North Corsica

Swordfish tartare, lonzu carpaccio, Calvi rosé… from oceanic dishes to butchers’ cuts, a few Corsican addresses play their best thanks to their local specialties. To top it off, the views are exquisite. Grab your forks !

1. Chez Vincent, the old port of Bastia

At Chez Vincent, a leading staple of Bastia’s citadel neighborhood, you will find deliciously inventive mediterranean cuisine. Saint Marcellin fillo with pear and honey, swordfish salad with espelette pepper, crusted beef and pizzas lead our palates. The restaurant faces the sea and offers an incredible view of the old harbour. A second restaurant, the “Petit Vincent”, has opened a few blocks away at the foot of the bastions. There also, the dishes are tasty and you can enjoy them on a cosy terrasse facing the sea. All in all, two beautiful addresses.

Chez Vincent, 12 rue Saint-Michel, 20200 Bastia - Phone : 04 95 31 62 50

2. Chez l’Auberge du Chat qui Pêche, Cap Corse

Hidden in Cap Corse’s Canari, between Saint Florent and Centuri, the Auberge du chat qui pêche is a restaurant with a majestic and shaded view of the gulf of Saint-Vincent. Facing the sea, you can admire the Agriates, Saleccia, the Rousse island and even Cintu when the weather permits. On the plate, only the classics of Corsican cuisine: pan-seared squid, Corsican veal with olives and swordfish steak. We will be back!

L’Auberge du Chat qui Pêche, Route départementale 80 "ham abro", 20217 Canari - Phone : 04 95 37 81 52

3. Les Roches Bleues, Piana calanques

At the heart of the Piana calanques, a world heritage site, the Roches Bleues are hard to miss, the only chalet lost in fascinating nature. This exceptional spot is perfect to enjoy the sunset, between the sea and the mountains, with a glass of rosé and a plate of smoked meats (15€). Don’t bother with the rest of the menu, the only feast this place offers is for your eyes.

Les Roches Bleues, bar/snack/bistrot, Lieu-dit Les Calanches de Piana - 20115 Piana - Phone. : 04 95 27 81 19

4. Le Sassa, Nonza black beach

“Wow” is the first thing everyone can’t help saying when they arrive at the Sassa, soothed by the shade of the Paoline tower. Suspended to a rocky peak facing the Saint-Florent bay, this carefully decorated haven offers an impressive panoramic view from its terrasse of the vast black pebble beach of Nonza, the Paoline tower and the Agriates as a backdrop. Striking. In a loungy atmosphere, DJ-spun music mingles with tapas, artisanal ice cream and fresh cocktails. Come enjoy this rare setting with your favorite people. The start of a great evening.

Le Sassa, at the bottom of the Paoline tower, Nonza - Bar/restaurant - open from April to Sept- Phone. : 04 95 38 55 26

New in : 

My absolute best breakfast in Brooklyn

From classic American pancakes to innovative Japanese tapas, discover my three favorite spots to enjoy breakfast in New York, all over Brooklyn.

1. The chic Milk and Roses

Milk and Roses offers original Italian-American fare in a revamped boudoir setting. A grand piano stands at the entrance, a cosy garden can be seen in the back courtyard, and bookcases filled with old folios line this charming Greenpoint intimate haven. For breakfast, I decide to sample their mascarpone French toast infused with lime and coconut, drizzled with sugar cane syrup. Delightful! On the savory side, I recommend the oven-baked brie fillo, with fennel, rosemary, honey and balsamic glaze. Don’t walk there, run !

Milk & Roses, 1110 Manhattan Ave Brooklyn, NY 11222 - Phone : (718) 389-0160

2. The healthy Stonefruit

The Stonefruit coffee shop is a typically confidential New-York address tucked away in Bed Stuy. It offers selected and healthy breakfast options that are as beautiful as they are delicious. Their Chia Pudding, bathed in luscious almond milk, cinnamon and maple sugar, hold its ground on a bed of seasonal fruit, pecans, coconut and pumpkin seeds. I also tried the lavender tea latte, which I found hard to resist !

Stonefruit Espresso + Kitchen, 1058 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11205 - Tèl. : (718)230-4147

3. The creative Hokonomi

Dans une ruelle calme de Williamsburg, Hokonomi propose une formule unique pour un petit-déjeuner décalé dénommé "Ichiju", un style traditionnel de mets japonais. Cette formule de tapas est composée de riz à sept grains, servi avec une soupe miso, un poisson rôti, des légumes et un œuf. Un véritable voyage dans le temps. Un must !

Hokonomi, 150 Ainslie St, Brooklyn, NY 11211 - Phone : 718-302-0598

4. The french Once upon the tart

Behind its wood-encased window adorned with fresh fruit and vegetable, Once Upon A Tart boasts to sell French pastries supposedly as good as the ones you can find in their motherland... Let’s see if that is true! Scones, muffins, carrot cake and beautiful fruit tarts line the display, and it is all very tempting… These delicacies are born from the mind of Jerôme Audureau, a baker from Avignon in the south of France. I fall for a cherry and pecan tart and a creamy chaï latte: Delicious! However, buyers beware: Quality has a cost in New York… and the pastries are quite pricey.

35 Sullivan St, New York, NY 10012 - Phone : +1 212-387-8869

New in :