Petite Terre The best-kept secret island of Guadeloupe

Lost in the Atlantic ocean east of Guadeloupe, the uninhabited islands of Petite Terre are a true gem. This wild stretch of land is home to native iguanas, green turtles, lemon sharks and a world of tropical fish. Unbeatable.

Petite Terre. Head to paradise

Protected by a preserved coral line, the Terre-de-Bas island is the only one you can actually visit. Six miles from the Pointe-des-Chateaux, at the eastern tip of Grande-Terre, Terre-de-Bas is accessible by boat from Saint François. After a short, hour-and-a-half long trip, I arrive on a 0.5 square mile of paradise where all is zen. I am dreaming awake.

Day trip cruise  (boat trip A/R, lunch and drinks, snorkeling material) with differents options of boat ( fast boat, cruise boat, catamaran...)  start from 70€/pers. Go to the Saintes islands website to get the info.

What to do and see in Petite Terre ?

The underwater paradise

The sun shines through clear, turquoise waters and hits the white sand below in a perpetual motion of light. A few seconds after I go under, I meet a school of surgeon fish, leopard rays, barracudas and green turtles dancing around me. Hypnotizing. A few feet below, lemon sharks join the party. Some even saw dolphins. What else?

The Light house

Between the coconut grove and the mangrove stand two old buildings. This “end of the world” lighthouse, now a nature museum, offers an exhibition room that tells the story of Petite Terre. The island was discovered by the Arawaks in 500 BC, and after by Christopher Colombus in 1500, and served as cotton-producing land. A calming hike where iguanas hide here and there. Let’s go play hide and seek...

Welcome to iguana land and more...

Iguanas rule. The 9500 native iguanas of the island are the second largest iguana population in Guadeloupe. Looks like a Caribbean Jurassic Park. Hermit crabs are not easily impressed however, and, despite their small size, speed and discretion, I saw them everywhere you can also spot iguanas, their favorite food.

The water

The palm trees

The lagoon

Where is Petite Terre ? 

 

Départure from Saint-François

• With cruise boat (50 people)  : Saint-François/Petite Terre - Petite Terre/Saint- François + including the all day in Petite Terre ( lunch, drinks, snorkeling material, guide tour) (68€ to 90€)

• With catamaran  (small group) Saint-François/Petite Terre - Petite Terre/Saint- François - all day included (80€ to 90€)
• With fast boat and a skipper (8 to 14 people) : 390€ all day included, without gaz
• With sail boat and a skipper : 300€ de 2 à 9 personnes

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A perfect Week-end in the Saintes islands

The Saint Islands archipelago, 9 miles south of Guadeloupe, is a mix of traditional charm and crystal-clear waters. Two out of the nine islands are inhabited, Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas. It is hard to leave once you are there.

The magnificent Saintes Bay

The Saintes’ bay is legendary, and one of the most beautiful in the world, next to San Francisco and Rio de Janeiro. The scuba diving is also one of the best in the Caribbean, thanks to populated reefs and the famous Sec Paté spot. The bay has everything for the beach lover, from paddle boarding to sailing and snorkeling.

Club Pisquette, Lieu Dit Le Mouillage | Terre de Haut - Les Saintes, 97137- Tèl. : +590 (0)590 99 88 - turn left from the wharf, on Jean Calot street. Continue for a few blocks, and the club will be on your right, right before the coast that leads to the boathouse.

Tour the island on a scooter

After a 45 minute boat ride from Trois-Rivières in Guadeloupe, I pick up a scooter near the wharf and start my tour of the small island. Dreamy beaches, typical Creole houses, beautiful landforms.... Tropical exoticism hits me even before I step off the boat.

Rent a scooter near the wharf or by the church. From 25€/lday.

A guided tour of the Fort Napoléon

One of the best tourist attractions is the Fort Napoléon, a 400-feet high military fortress that towers over the Saintes bay. Its permanent exhibition tells the story of the islands and the famous naval battle of 1782 that saw the French and the British fight to claim the archipelago. The view of Marie-Galante, Guadeloupe and Dominica is beautiful. Not to be missed.

Fort Napoléon visits. Tèl. : +590 (0)690 50 73 47. 15 minute-walk from the wharf. Open from 9 am to 12.30 pm -3,5€/ adults ,2€/children under 12

Head to the Pain de Sucre and Anse Crawen

The Pain de Sucre beach, covered in moonlight cacti, is one of the most beautiful beaches of Terre-de-Haut. It attracts many tourists, so better go before lunch, as it is a precious spot. Nearby, the black sand Anse Crawen offers a nice respite. A serene haven.

What are the best restaurants in the Saintes?

Crayfish profiteroles, coconut seabass, lambi lasagna… All are served at the Au Bon Vivre restaurant, my favorite table in Terre-de-Haut. At Ti Bo Doudou, you can eat with your feet in the water, and enjoy a ray chiquetaille  and a tuna tartare that will give you chills. For a light lunch, try the Saladerie, which makes the freshest and most original salads of the island.

Au Bon Vivre, 31 rue J.Calot, 97137 Terre de Haut - Tèl. : +33 590 94 19 84
Ti Bo Doudou, 58, rue Benoit Cassin, 97137 Terre de Haut - +33 590 98 56 67
La Saladerie, Anse Mire,  97137 Terre de Hau - Tèl. : +33 590 99 53 43 

Hike at the Trace des Crêtes

Starting from Grande Anse, the Trace des Crêtes hike goes through the more arid landscapes of the island, between cacti and century-old frangipani. The Grande Anse beach, with its high Atlantic waves, is quite impressive. The nearby cemetery is charming, colourful, and atypical, with its lambi-ladden tombs. The hike ends the Marigot Bay and the Pompierre Beach. Sensational.

Trace des Crêtes hike, center of Terre-De-Haut. The hike begins after the last house behind the cemetery, follow the white paint marks along the way. 45 min to 1h.

Wander around in Marigot

The population of the Saintes islands, progeny of Brittons or Normans, live off fishing and tourism. In the fishing town of Marigot, they can be seen around their saintoises, a traditional colourful wooden boat.

Shopping and "tourment d'amour" testing

Near the wharf, you can find a few shops offering beach fashion and trinkets made from natural materials, done in a somewhat tikki style that I love. The Atelier du savon des Saintes sells artisanal soap made with coconut, pineapple and lime, to bring home a bit of your vacation.
On the road, I can smell in the air the tourment d’amour (or love torment): Stuffed with coconut, banana or guava, this little island delicacy tastes like its name. Oh, the joys of tourment d’amour !

L'Atelier du savon des Saintes, Rue Jean Calot. 97137 Terre de Haut - Tèl. : +33 590 99 56 24
Souvent assises, les mamies accompagnées de leurs grands paniers en osier, vendent les tourments d'amour au niveau de l'embarcadère aux horaires de départ des bateaux.

L'Anse Mire

I love wandering around Anse Mire to talk with the locals, gaze at the little Creole houses, and use the swings my feet in the water. A little exercise ? The clear-bottom boat is the new green activity, and allows you to explore underwater life. Great for families with children.

Clear Blue Caraïbes, rue Jean Calot, 97137 Terre-de-Haut - 20€/adulte, 15€/enfant jusqu'à 15ans, gratuit pour les - de 9 ans - Tèl. : 0690657981

Where to sleep in the Saintes islands ? 

Villa Amarelao, rue anse figuier, 97137 Terre-De-Haut - Tél. :05 90 99 19 58
Hôtel Bois Joli, Route du Bois Joli, 97137 Terre-De-Haut - Tél. :05 90 99 50 38
Hôtel le Kanaoa, Anse Mire, 97137 Terre-De-Haut - Tèl. : 0590 99 51 36

Where are the Saintes islands ?

 

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5 restaurants where locals actually go in Guadeloupe

Refreshing, spicy, flavourful… Creole cuisine knows to honour its traditional roots while embracing modernity. Whether you fancy a trendy spot or rather eat with your feet in the sand, here is my selection of exceptional restaurants where you can sample the best of French West Indies food. 

1. An Tol La. The most traditional

In the heart of Carénage, the Point-à-Pitre working-class neighborhood, An Tol La serves the locals on their lunch break. This little hut faces the wharf and has quite a bit of charm. A select choice of local dishes made with fresh ingredients and flavored rum for when the sun sets. My favorite ? Grilled fish with kidney beans. Delicious!

An Tol La, Fouillole, 97110 Pointe-à-Pitre - Tél. : +590 (0)690 71 49 72

2. Le Vieux-Port. The cosiest

The Vieux Port has been constantly delivering on its promises since 1980. On the old harbour in Saint-François, the colourful hut sets an intimate mood, ideal for a date or a family dinner. Bernard and Odile, the establishment’s charming cooks, offer a refined and modern Creole cuisine. I try the classic chicken Colombo and a grilled dorado, both fresh and perfectly balanced. For dessert, I fell in love with their traditional coconut flan served with homemade caramel. This place is my go-to for a truly home cooked happy meal! 

Le Vieux Port, Rue Margagnan, (face au port de pêche), 97118 Saint-François - Tèl. : 05 90 88 46 60

3. Chez Henri. The most unfamiliar

Near the wharf on Saint Louis beach, the Marie-Galante born Henri offers modern French West Indies food in his namesake restaurant. My feet in the sand, I enjoy a feast of dorado fillo with local vegetables. At night, I come back for the “takeoff”, an aperitif of legendary iced rum accompanied by the sounds of live music. Definitely my favorite address of the island. 

Chez Henri, 8, Avenue des Caraïbes Saint-Louis, Marie Galante - Tèl. : 0590 97 04 57

4. Le Colombo. The most classic

The Colombo has been delivering the fleshiest and best-grilled lobsters of Grande-Terre since the seventies. Go to the Pointe-des-Châteaux, which faces the family-friendly Anse du Mancenillier beach to enjoy the most well-liked shellfish of the island. The Colombo is steeped in my childhood, and has no equivalent. A true legend !

Section la Coulée D 118, 97118, Saint François, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 590 88-5738

5. Les dents de la mer. The most international food truck

Tuna tataki, gluten-free tacos, dorado fillets, fresh fish tartar…. These aren’t on the menu of some organic bistro, but are served in Les Dents de la Mer, a local food truck started by a pair of local thirty-somethings, . They definitely deliver, and also serve, with a winning smile, delicious fresh juices. Everything that I love.

Les Dents de la Mer, Rue Henri Becquerel, Baie Mahault, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 (0)690 12-6689

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My go-to places in Marie-Galante

Marie-Galante continuously celebrates its traditional roots in the French West Indies, with its turquoise waters, legendary rums and endless sugar cane oasis. Zoom-in on an outstanding island off the Guadeloupe coast.

Twenty miles south-east of Guadeloupe is Marie-Galante, an island otherwise known as the “grande galette” (“big pancake”) or “the island with a hundred windmills”. I didn’t remember much of my first trip there, so, 20 years later, here I am rediscovering this gem for a weekend. Follow the guide !

1. Discover the island’s most beautiful beaches

My two favorite beaches are Feuillère beach and Petite Anse, both at the edge of a palm grove and boarded by waters boasting thousands of different blue hues. There is rarely anyone there, safe for the leatherback turtles and surgeonfish. What a luxury to share the golden sand with them!

Feuillère beach (Capesterre) - Petite Anse beach (Saint Louis)

2. Tour around Marie-Galante

The Gueule Grand-Gouffre site impresses with its sea-formed arch and the sound of the surf through it. The numerous distilleries (my favorite one is Bielle) take you through time, and offer the best rum in Guadeloupe. Impossible to leave Marie-Galante without stopping by one of its historical windmills, such as the Habitation Roussel Trianon.

Places to visit : Gueule Grand Gouffre (Saint Louis) - Distillerie Bielle (Grand Bourg) - Habitation Roussel Trianon - Ecomusée (Grand Bourg)

3. Village-hopping: Capesterre, Saint Louis and Grand Bourg

You will feel the true Marie-Galante charm in the narrow and colourful streets of Grand Bourg, Capesterre and Saint Louis, the three districts of the island. I love markets, and I can never resist visiting them on any of my travels: From the Grand Bourg market, I come with two bottles of “sirop de batterie”, a local sugar cane syrup.

4. Enjoy local food

Chez Henri

Near the wharf on Saint Louis beach, the Marie-Galante born Henri offers modern French West Indies food in his namesake restaurant. My feet in the sand, I enjoy a feast of dorado fillo with local vegetables. At night, I come back for the “takeoff”, an aperitif of legendary iced rum accompanied by the sounds of live music. Definitely my favorite address of the island. 

Chez Henri, 8, Avenue des Caraïbes Saint-Louis ) Tèl. : 0590 97 04 57

Au plaisir des Marins

Big fan of creole court-bouillon fish (similar to a blaff, the court bouillon is a stock containing tomatoes and fresh spices in which fish is cooked), I choose to enjoy it at Au plaisir des Marins (the Pleasure of Sailors), a table by the sea in Saint Louis. On the menu, Ti punch syrup drums, cod stuffed, short broth broth and flamed banana. As much to say that the nap of the afternoon was long .. Go for it !

Au plaisir des Marins, Section Chalet 97134 Saint Louis - Tél. : 05 90 97 08 11

Agoulou and bokit

The agoulou and the bokit are the best food to eat while appreciating a sunset by the ocean. I find a food truck hidden behind the Sainte-Anne Church in Capesterre, where I wait among a long line of people… But it was well worth the wait!

Agoulou et bokit à emporter au food truck derrière l'église Saint-Anne de Capesterre

Bébélé at Pomme Cannelle

In the heights of Capesterre, Marie-Christine puts love in the preparation of Marie-Galante’s most typical dish, the bébélé at her restaurant the Pomme Cannelle. Made with tripe, ripe stonefruit, flour balls, and green figs, the dish will put you in a delicious slumber...

Pomme Cannelle, Pichery, Capesterre 97140, Guadeloupe, Tèl. : +590 590 97-1708

Where is Marie-Galante ?

 

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Four not-to-be-missed Guadeloupe delicacies

Coconut sorbet, kassav, tourment d’amour… Here are the best places to discover and enjoy those local delicacies.

1. Coconut sorbet

On the Sainte-Rose road towards Deshaies, there is  a charming street vendor who sells a delicious coconut sorbet, my favorite in Guadeloupe ! In Grande-Terre, it is on the Saint-Anne beach that you can also find this traditional treat. Don’t miss the coconut Doukoun, a local cake from my childhood that pairs perfectly with the sorbet.

Basse-Terre : street vendor outside the Sainte-Rose village, on the road to Deshaies
Grande-Terre : street vendor at the entrance of the beach of Sainte-Anne, near the pedestrian crossing

2. The kassav

In Guadeloupe, the typical kassav is made of manioc pancakes stuffed with coconut. Variations exist with guava, banana or passion fruit jam. They can also come with savory fillings, like chicken, codfish or cheese and ham. In Petit-Bourg, Josie serves a delicious coconut kassav in her food truck at the Versailles roundabout. The best savory kassav can be found at the Perle beach in Saint-Rose.

Sweet kassav at Josie’s food truck at the Versailles roundabout in Petit-Bourg
Savory kassav at the end of Perle beach in Saint-Rose

3. The tourment d'amour

Originally from the Saintes islands, the tourment d’amour is a shortcrust pastry filled with coconut, guava or banana jam. The best ones can be found in the Saintes harbour, where you can see loca old women selling them out of their wicker baskets when ships come and go.
Tourment d'amour, Terre-De-Haut harbour, les Saintes - whenever a ship arrives or departs.

4. Le pudding antillais

Pudding is another local speciality. My mother makes it with sweet potato, but the recipe, which can also call for prunes or raisin rum, varies from family to family. They please both young and old! The Pointe-à-Pitre pastry shop Coco Banane makes delicious ones. Delightful !

Coco banane, 53 Chemin des Petites Abymes, 97110 Pointe-A-Pitre

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Three reasons to go to the Soufrière in Guadeloupe

The active volcano of the Soufrière is at the heart of Guadeloupe’s National Park, and is the highest peak of the island. Discover the images of the active hike that leads to it, filled with beauty and surprises! Follow the guide !

1. Dive into the tropical forest

Guadeloupe’s National Park, in the south of Basse-Terre, houses the fascinating and mysterious Soufrière, the island’s only volcano. Usually draped in heavy clouds, the “Old Lady” is naked for the first time. To get to the top, at 4812 feet above the ground, there is only one hiking trail, which leaves from Saint Claude. On the way, the temperature changes and the flora morphs. Sulphur fumaroles fill my nostrils while my ears are treated with the trickling sounds of small waterfalls. As I walk along the path, I spot more and more colorful wildflowers. The mist dissipates. I walk at my own pace, immersing myself in this magical biodiversity. From the top, I gaze at the craters, under a thin rain. Suddenly, the blue sky is back, and I am left with panoramic views of the Saintes, Marie-Galante, Dominica, Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre. Breathtaking !

Soufrière Hiking (3h for the sportive - 4h/5h for a normal walk) - Départure from Saint Claude (départementale 11) - follow the signs "Sentier de la Soufrière" through les Bains Jaunes - then take the "la Trace du Pas-du-Roy" road who goes to the la Savanne parking in Mulets - then take the "chemin des Dames" road (1h15) - and walk to the top (1467m).

2. Enjoy a natural spa at the foot of a volcano

The natural pool of the Bains Jaunes, at the bottom of the Soufrière, offers a relaxing end to the hike back from the top of the volcano. The water is at 90 degrees F and very soothing for my muscles. A must after such a physical adventure!

3. Go from sea to mountain in under 40 minutes

After spending the morning in the forest, I go to the Rocroy beach in Vieux-Habitants. Only 40 minutes from the Soufrière, I find myself on the terrasse of the Rocroy Zouk’afé. This friendly Caribbean hut always offers fresh fish for lunch, served with sweet potato and yam gratin.

Rocroy Zouk'afé, Plage Simaho, Bourg, 971119 Vieux-Habitants

Where is the Soufrière volcano ?

 

From Pointe-À-Pitre : take the road nationale 1 ou 2 direction Saint-Claude/Basse-Terre.
From Bouillante : take the road la traversée (D23) who cross the National Park of Guadeloupe.

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