5 restaurants where locals actually go in Guadeloupe

Refreshing, spicy, flavourful… Creole cuisine knows to honour its traditional roots while embracing modernity. Whether you fancy a trendy spot or rather eat with your feet in the sand, here is my selection of exceptional restaurants where you can sample the best of French West Indies food. 

1. An Tol La. The most traditional

In the heart of Carénage, the Point-à-Pitre working-class neighborhood, An Tol La serves the locals on their lunch break. This little hut faces the wharf and has quite a bit of charm. A select choice of local dishes made with fresh ingredients and flavored rum for when the sun sets. My favorite ? Grilled fish with kidney beans. Delicious!

An Tol La, Fouillole, 97110 Pointe-à-Pitre - Tél. : +590 (0)690 71 49 72

2. Le Vieux-Port. The cosiest

The Vieux Port has been constantly delivering on its promises since 1980. On the old harbour in Saint-François, the colourful hut sets an intimate mood, ideal for a date or a family dinner. Bernard and Odile, the establishment’s charming cooks, offer a refined and modern Creole cuisine. I try the classic chicken Colombo and a grilled dorado, both fresh and perfectly balanced. For dessert, I fell in love with their traditional coconut flan served with homemade caramel. This place is my go-to for a truly home cooked happy meal! 

Le Vieux Port, Rue Margagnan, (face au port de pêche), 97118 Saint-François - Tèl. : 05 90 88 46 60

3. Chez Henri. The most unfamiliar

Near the wharf on Saint Louis beach, the Marie-Galante born Henri offers modern French West Indies food in his namesake restaurant. My feet in the sand, I enjoy a feast of dorado fillo with local vegetables. At night, I come back for the “takeoff”, an aperitif of legendary iced rum accompanied by the sounds of live music. Definitely my favorite address of the island. 

Chez Henri, 8, Avenue des Caraïbes Saint-Louis, Marie Galante - Tèl. : 0590 97 04 57

4. Le Colombo. The most classic

The Colombo has been delivering the fleshiest and best-grilled lobsters of Grande-Terre since the seventies. Go to the Pointe-des-Châteaux, which faces the family-friendly Anse du Mancenillier beach to enjoy the most well-liked shellfish of the island. The Colombo is steeped in my childhood, and has no equivalent. A true legend !

Section la Coulée D 118, 97118, Saint François, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 590 88-5738

5. Les dents de la mer. The most international food truck

Tuna tataki, gluten-free tacos, dorado fillets, fresh fish tartar…. These aren’t on the menu of some organic bistro, but are served in Les Dents de la Mer, a local food truck started by a pair of local thirty-somethings, . They definitely deliver, and also serve, with a winning smile, delicious fresh juices. Everything that I love.

Les Dents de la Mer, Rue Henri Becquerel, Baie Mahault, Guadeloupe - Tèl. : +590 (0)690 12-6689

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Four not-to-be-missed Guadeloupe delicacies

Coconut sorbet, kassav, tourment d’amour… Here are the best places to discover and enjoy those local delicacies.

1. Coconut sorbet

On the Sainte-Rose road towards Deshaies, there is  a charming street vendor who sells a delicious coconut sorbet, my favorite in Guadeloupe ! In Grande-Terre, it is on the Saint-Anne beach that you can also find this traditional treat. Don’t miss the coconut Doukoun, a local cake from my childhood that pairs perfectly with the sorbet.

Basse-Terre : street vendor outside the Sainte-Rose village, on the road to Deshaies
Grande-Terre : street vendor at the entrance of the beach of Sainte-Anne, near the pedestrian crossing

2. The kassav

In Guadeloupe, the typical kassav is made of manioc pancakes stuffed with coconut. Variations exist with guava, banana or passion fruit jam. They can also come with savory fillings, like chicken, codfish or cheese and ham. In Petit-Bourg, Josie serves a delicious coconut kassav in her food truck at the Versailles roundabout. The best savory kassav can be found at the Perle beach in Saint-Rose.

Sweet kassav at Josie’s food truck at the Versailles roundabout in Petit-Bourg
Savory kassav at the end of Perle beach in Saint-Rose

3. The tourment d'amour

Originally from the Saintes islands, the tourment d’amour is a shortcrust pastry filled with coconut, guava or banana jam. The best ones can be found in the Saintes harbour, where you can see loca old women selling them out of their wicker baskets when ships come and go.
Tourment d'amour, Terre-De-Haut harbour, les Saintes - whenever a ship arrives or departs.

4. Le pudding antillais

Pudding is another local speciality. My mother makes it with sweet potato, but the recipe, which can also call for prunes or raisin rum, varies from family to family. They please both young and old! The Pointe-à-Pitre pastry shop Coco Banane makes delicious ones. Delightful !

Coco banane, 53 Chemin des Petites Abymes, 97110 Pointe-A-Pitre

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