The MUA Masters Shaping Viral Runway Looks
In the shadows of the shows, they sculpt faces, set trends, and infuse an unforgettable aura into the most prestigious shows. These genius MUA artists, adored by brands but invisible to the public eye, are the silent architects of beauty. Who are they? Why are their names unknown when their work is everywhere? A deep dive into the secret world of these brush masters the industry can’t get enough of.
Every model, every celebrity, every image — an army of creatives orchestrates the illusion. Makeup artists, hairstylists, stylists, nail artists, technicians: these invisible architects sculpt the look and generate millions of views, images, and videos, scattered across the globe. Yet, behind this media frenzy, one question remains: who is truly shaping these narratives? Does the inclusivity presented on the surface reflect a genuine transformation beneath, or is it just a carefully staged mirage? Are the backstage realms still a reserved territory, despite the prevailing discourse?
The industry drapes itself in inclusivity, but the backstage tells a different story. Runways showcase BIPOC faces, but what about decision-making positions? Pharrell shines at Vuitton, but where are the others? How many creative directors, head designers, or strategists from these communities are actually shaping the future of brands? Diversity cannot be limited to the image; it must be embedded in the studios, boardrooms, and workshops. Without this, inclusivity remains a performance, a smoke screen that hides a reality much more entrenched than it pretends to be. Let’s break down the pioneers who are paving the way.
The MUA Artists Who Run the Show
Pat McGrath
Pat McGrath’s Makeup Creation for Margiela’s Show at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024
Of Jamaican-British origin, Pat McGrath is a living legend in makeup, shaping the aesthetic of the runways for over two decades. Regarded as the world’s most influential makeup artist, she orchestrated no less than 15 shows this season, imprinting her avant-garde vision on the most coveted backstage spaces. Through brushstrokes and product innovations, McGrath does more than enhance faces—she rewrites the codes of contemporary beauty. While expertly managing her iconic brand, Pat McGrath Labs, she is now overseeing the development of a new line of prestige cosmetics, solidifying her absolute reign over the industry.
Sir John
One of the most famous and influential makeup artists in the fashion industry, Sir John, born in Buffalo, New York, carved his path with rare boldness, leaving a signature that straddles the line between classic and disruptive ultra-glamour. His encounter with Yadim Carranza in 2010 catapulted him into the big leagues, bringing him alongside legends like Pat McGrath and Charlotte Tilbury.
That same year marked a pivotal moment: Tom Ford's inaugural runway show. Amidst the buzzing backstage and dancing brushes, Sir John met Beyoncé. An instant chemistry led to a collaboration that would redefine the history of contemporary glam. Since then, he has become the architect behind the most iconic looks of the star, from the Super Bowl to the Met Gala.
His trajectory continues to rise. In 2023, Kilian Paris appointed him as the first-ever Artistic Director of Makeup in the world of luxury fragrance. In 2024 and 2025, his influence explodes on the runways: Tom Ford, Carolina Herrera, Romeo Hunt, Estée Lauder. In Paris, he creates masterful looks for Valentino Fall/Winter 2024 and Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. In Milan, Versace entrusts him with the beauty of its sculptural silhouettes.
But beyond the glamour and perfection, a deeper mission: to pave the way.
« It’s not just about makeup. It’s about representation, legacy, and elevating beauty in all its forms. »
Fara Homidi
Fara Hakoudi, photographed by Aaron Stern, Harper's Bazaar
Born in Afghanistan and raised in San Francisco in the 90s, Fara Homidi has emerged as one of the most innovative makeup artists of her generation, especially on the runways of the biggest fashion houses. Her minimalist and sophisticated style made waves at the shows of Coperni, Off-White, Miu Miu, and The Row, where she captivated attention with a natural and emotional approach to makeup. Using bold materials like liquid latex and Petri dishes, she created avant-garde looks that redefined beauty standards on the catwalks.
State of Wonder – Vogue US, March 2025, by Tyler Mitchell, styling by Camilla Nickerson, hair by Jawara, MUA by Fara Homidi, featuring Anok Yai
In 2023, she launched her eponymous brand, Fara Homidi Beauty, with a radical vision of "slow beauty" that prioritizes high-quality products and a more conscious approach to beauty. Between 2024 and 2025, she continues her rise, collaborating with prestigious houses like Valentino, Chanel, Loewe, and Casablanca. Behind the spotlight of the runway, she enhances icons such as Lupita Nyong’o, Rihanna, and Yara Shahidi, while challenging conventions and redefining the role of BIPOC beauty in the industry.
« I grew up with a different perspective on beauty, and my work is a way to celebrate that diversity while being bold. »
To Go Further
The question of visibility and inclusion for BIPOC creatives in the fashion industry is crucial. Despite progress, these professionals—makeup artists, hairstylists, stylists—often remain on the fringes of the global stage. However, recent initiatives signal a shift toward change.
The British Fashion Council (BFC)
Le British Fashion Council (BFC) is actively working to promote inclusivity within the fashion industry’s leadership, specifically targeting decision-making and strategic roles held by individuals from BIPOC communities. Beyond representation on the runways, the BFC is committed to diversifying key positions within fashion brands. For instance, in 2024, the organization launched mentorship programs and scholarships designed to support emerging talent from these communities, fostering their rise to leadership roles.
Le Black in Fashion Council (BIFC)
À Milan, le In Milan, the Black in Fashion Council brings together a resilient collective of editors, models, stylists, media executives, freelance creatives, and other industry players, all united in redefining inclusivity within the ready-to-wear sector. Their mission: to urge brands, publications, and non-Black influential figures to reflect on their roles in either opening or obstructing opportunities for Black talent in the industry.
The organization emphasizes that the fashion industry cannot claim to be progressive unless it actively commits to true diversity within its structures while dismantling deeply rooted racist systems. The "Communities at Work" event during Milan Fashion Week 2023, in partnership with Vogue Italia, shed light on the challenges faced by BIPOC talent while highlighting the importance of mentorship and long-term inclusion strategies. The presence of Anna Wintour as the guest of honor further amplified the impact of this essential initiative.
When will we see an equivalent initiative in Paris?
L’Officiel Vietnam. Model : Gilone - Photographer : Camellia Menard