The best places to chill in Tangalle

Tangalle is a true find. Nestled at the South-West tip of the island, this little fishing harbour charms the traveler with its pink-hued wild beaches, its unspoilt nature and its neverending palm tree groves. This paradise is where local turtles choose to lay their eggs, and to witness this event, under the starlit sky, felt like I was on another planet.

What to do and see in Tangalle ?

Contrary to the beaches in Mirissa or Hikkaduwa, very few tourists venture out to Tangalle because of sometimes dangerous swimming conditions. When they would rather stay in their luxury hotels, I spent my time wandering on the beach, taking in beautiful sunsets, exercising in nature and visiting temples.

The turtle egg-laying site

Thanks to the Turtle Conservation Project, an NGO that protects turtles and their nests on Rewaka Beach, you can witness the animals laying their eggs.

The meeting point is at 8pm at the conservation center, from which you depart with a group and a guide, all the way to the beach where you spend part of the night waiting for the turtles. Sri Lanka has five different species of turtles, some of which can be as 4 feet tall and weigh 300 pounds. A magical experience, a little tainted by the sheer number of tourists present for the event.

Turtle conservation Project, 1000RP/adult - 500RP/kid, Rewaka Road, Tangalle

Le Mulkirigala Rock temple

Twelve miles from Tangalle sits one of the island’s oldest temples, the Mulkirigala Rock Temple. Perched in the middle of nowhere, it is embedded in the rock of a cliff 950 feet above the ground. The place is very peaceful, and attracts more monkeys than tourists. I payed a guide to tell me more about the temple’s history, but he seemed as clueless as my other travel guide… Better to concentrate on the beauty and serenity of the surroundings. After climbing steep stairs, I was rewarded with breathtaking views of the rainforest.

Mulkirigala Rock temple, 500RP, 30 min in tutuk from Tangalle

Where to sleep in Tangalle ?

Tangalle itself is well-known for its luxury hotels, but the backcountry counts guesthouses with attractive and reasonable lodging options. After a long search, I found a real gem: the Turtle View Resort, hidden a few feet from the beach. I felt immediately at home in a spacious bungalow surrounded by a tropical garden. It had its own patio, where I could relax or engage in a coco battle. My hosts were very agreeable, spoke good English and were great cooks. I had one of the best breakfasts of my trip there, with sambol and hopper. For lunch and dinner, I could choose between the catch of the day or a traditional dish.

* Sambol : fish with a mix of coconut and spices
* Hopper : pancakes with a rice floor and spices

Turlte View Resort, 5000RP/night (30€) in march, Belivinna Goda, Rewaka, Netolpitiya,  Tangalle - Phone. : +94 77 196 3140

How to come to Tangalle ? 

 

Hikkaduwa/Tangalle : 2h15 by bus 1800RP (11€) - 1h30 by taxi 8100RP (50€)
Tangalle/Tissamaharama : 3h15 by bus 4100RP (25€)
Tangalle/Arugam Bay : 3h30 by taxi 16 300RP (100€)

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The Best Things to See and Do in Ella, Sri Lanka

Known for its verdant landscapes, ayurvedic massages and hikes in the heart of tea plantations, Ella promises an escape to otherworldly places. Are you ready for a bowl of fresh air ?

What to do and see in Ella ? 

The tea plantations in Ella define the mountainous region of Sri Lanka, occupying nearly 1000 acres of land. Towering at nearly 6500 feet, Ella is the perfect destination to discover Sri Lanka’s “green gold”, as the country is the second largest manufacturer of tea in the world. I discover the process of producing tea, from harvest to bagging, at the Newburg Green Tea Factory. All around me are the Tamil women working hard in the tea fields. This particularly strenuous activity feeds 75% of the local population.

Newburgh Green Tea Factory, Newburgh Tea Estate Passara Rd, Ella

Little Adam's Peak and Ella Rock

On the hour-long hike that leads to Little Adam’s Peak, I encounter typical houses, wandering cows and a lovely flower garden called Ella Flower Garden Resort, like little surprises sowed along the way. I was hypnotized by the blue-green hues of the mountains around you can see once you reach the top. Jumping monkeys and singing birds escorted me on my way down, and the view into the Rawana waterfall stopped time, as the surrounding village seems to be in its own timezone.

Where to sleep in Ella ? 

Ella’s Edge Resort  is the perfect place to take in the vistas and the luxuriant nature around. Therooms all have a view on the mountains, and offer a moment of peace that keeps on giving.

Ella's Edge Resort, 5000RP/nuit (env.30€), Peramas Ella Wellawaya Rd, 90100 Ella - Tel : +94 77
393 0455

Ella by night

The coffeeshop Little Folly is a great daytime tea spot, and offers a moment of respite away from the crowds. At night, Main street is the way to go, where many tourists wander to take in the atmosphere. Dream Café is the liveliest place to hang out and meet fellow travelers. For dinner, I recommend Remo’s, where you can experience the traditional Lamprai dish, made of rice and spicy vegetables cooked in a banana leaf. A must !

Remo's restaurant, 264 Wellawaya Road, 90090 Ella
Down Town Rotti Hut, Main Street, Ella 90090, Sri Lanka

How to come to Ella ?

 

• Nuwara Eliya/Ella : 2h30 by train - 110RP/pers
• Ella/Kandy : 7h by train - 900RP/pers
• Arum Bay/Ella : 2h by car

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The beautiful Mirissa Twin Beach in Sri Lanka

Sunsets to die, crystal water, parties by the ocean ... are the integral part of life in Mirissa, more than in any other city in Sri Lanka, producing the delightful sensation of being on an endless vacation. Welcome to Mirissa Beach.

Mirissa et sa twin beach

Set down your backpacks, put on your bathing suit, and head to the beach ! Rows of coconut trees and beachfront restaurants are picture-perfect. Mirissa, I think I’m in love.

Let’s go to Parrot Rock, where you can see Mirissa’s two lagoons merge into one, the famous Twin Beach. This endless beach attracts many tourists thanks to its restaurants and famed surf break, but remains a true slice of paradise.

Things to do in Mirissa

Fill your days in Mirissa with snorkeling, swimming, surfing and boating. Whale watching is possible between September and March. For a moment of relaxation, take a class at Rukshan Yoga, where you’ll work your thighs, bottocks and abs in a zen-like atmosphere. The Kandavahari Temple is the perfect place to witness a beautiful sunset.

Rukshan Yoga, Hill Top Temple (Rathnagiri Temple, Udupila, Mirissa,Sri Lanka - Tèl. : (+9477)517-3612 - Kandavahari Temple  - Wales tour (all the clubs are on the beach)

Restaurants and bars in Mirissa

On the beach, the Coco Café is a pretty and cosy coffee shop where you can enjoy a variety of healthy breakfast options.

At night, the air changes. Hipster waiters with long hair-don’t care light up bonfires, as others set up fresh fish at restaurants entrances. Dozens of candlelit tables cover the entire beach, reminding me of Bali….

Beachfront restaurants can be very pricey. So I went inland on Matara Road where local dishes cost 400 RP to 500 RP (3 to 4 US$). The setting is noisy, but everything in the plate is delicious! Beyond Parrot Rock, facing the surf break, you can find calmer and cheaper bars. Beware the mosquitoes that attack you as soon as the

How to come to Mirissa ? 

 

• Colombo/Mirissa : 3h30 by train  - 140 to 220RP/pers in 2nd class
• Hikkaduwa/Mirissa : 1h30 by train - 80RP/pers in 2nde class or 1h45 in tuk tuk - 1500RP/pers
• Weligama/Mirissa  : 15RP/pers by bus - or 350RP/pers by tuk tuk

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Sri Lanka, my top travel tips in Hikkaduwa

Three weeks in Sri Lanka without planning anything. But how? Ask around where to go, mingle over coffee, and just go for it! Ready ? Set, go !

 Hikkaduwa : Sun, Sand & Surf

After a short night in a hotel near the airport, I head to the central station of Negombo to hop on a train and head to Hikkaduwa. Apparently, that is where you can find miles of sandy beaches, surf-worthy waves, snorkeling spots, and relaxed bars opened as soon as the sun sets. Hikkaduwa, here I come !

Train Negombo/Hikkaduwa (2h/2h30) - btw 6/8€ in 2nd class.

Things to do in Hikkaduwa

I jump in the water as soon as I arrive : It is 90 degrees and sunny, and I can’t resist ! Bali is not the only surf-spot in Southeast Asia, and you can surf or learn right here in Sri Lanka. Surf schools abound, and prices don’t vary much. Snorkeling is also available.

Turtle watching at Turtle Hatchery Hikkaduwa is much appreciated by the tourists, and free for the locals. So let’s support the effort!

The Community Tsunami Museum commemorates the tragic tsunami of 2004. Nearby, the Honganji Vihara Buddha statue, its gaze facing the sea, serves as a memorial to its victims. The statue, a gift from the Japanese government, towers at 32 feet, the exact height of the wave that engulfed a train filled with passengers, and claimed 1700 lives (that we know of).

Surf school, many clubs at the beach.
Community Tsunami Museum, 95th km of Galle Road, Hikkaduwa.
Turtle Hatchery Hikkaduwa, 500RP, AH43 Galle Road, Hikkaduwa.

Restaurants and bars

Tasty bowls, banana bread, fresh fish…. The Salty Swamis Cafe & Surf Shop offers the best exotic healthy food around. At night, I also tested all the fast food joints along Galle Street, which serve traditional dishes. For a good party, head to Top Secret, a trendy bar where backpackers meet and share their adventures around a pitcher of caïpirinha.

Salty Swamis Cafe & Surf Shop, 542 Galle Road, Wewala, Hikkaduwa 80240 - 8am to 3pm
Top Secret, 698 Galle Road, Narigama beach, Hikkaduwa.

Where to sleep in Hikkaduwa ? 

Voir en taille réelle

I spent my time in Hikkaduwa at the Universal Beach Guest House, which sits on the beach and
offers a close view of the sunset. The value is pretty good and the hosts are friendly.

Universal Beach Guest House,4000 RP/night

How to come to Hikkaduwa ?

 

• Hikkaduwa : by bus, 3h from Colombo (120RP)
• by train : 2h30/3h from Colombo (160RP in 2nd class, 85RP en 3d class)

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Top 10 dishes of Sri Lanka

Known for its “rice and curry” and Ceylon tea, the food in Sri Lanka claims its multi-cultural roots. Whether spicy and fragrant or sweetened with coconut, the exotic gastronomy gathers those looking for a different kind of cuisine. Here are my top ten, not to be missed dishes.

The best Sri Lankan breakfast

#1: Breakfast in Sri Lanka is generous and spicy. Both savory and sweet, it is usually composed of fresh fruit and shaved coconut pancakes named the Pani Bol. Absolutely delicious.

#2. The string hoppers may look like a funny vermicelli nest, but paired with dal curry, a soft lentil delicacy, they get eaten under a minute. Yum.

3#. Hoppers (no string attached this time) can also mean thin coconut milk crepes, served with dal curry or just simple cane sugar. Hard to keep from eating 10 in a row and ruin your appetite….

4#. The coconut roti, reminiscent of the Indian naan bread, can easily replace our Western toasts.

5#. I really loved the pol sambol pancake. Shaped like a bowl, it is made with coconut milk and is served with a sweet and spicy coconut hash. So delicious !

The famous rice and curry

6#. The famous “rice and curry” is the country’s national dish and thus the most popular in Sri Lanka. It comprises rice and dal curry, garnished with fish, meat or vegetables.

7#. Are you over rice and curry? Try a good biryani with shrimp or chicken. A welcomed change of flavor !

The Kottu roti, devilled chicken and lamprai

8#. Devilled dishes are an other popular speciality, and as you will taste, it’s all in the name… With rice and chicken or fish, they are extremely spicy. Sensitive palates beware !

9#. Kottu roti, also a traditional dish, has an impressive preparation process: All the ingredients are chopped together with large (and noisy!) metallic palets. Roti bread is finely mixed with vegetables, eggs, fish or chicken on a large stone hotplate. I loved it!

10#. Last but not least, lamprai, made of rice and vegetables cooked in a banana leaf. It reminds me of French West Indies recipes, inspired from Indian cuisine, that use the same cooking process.

Une petite soif ? 

A la mangue, à la papaye, au fruit de la passion ou à l'orange, les jus de fruits frais, crémeux et acidulés, n'ont pas de prix au Sri Lanka. Nous en avons fait une cure durant tout notre séjour. Pour une detox complète, j'ai testé différents thés verts, bien plus doux que le célèbre thé de Ceylan. Autre pépite à consommer sans modération, l'eau de coco. Pour s'amuser, nous faisions souvent des battles de coco pour voir qui finissait le sien en 1er. 

Amoureux de la bière, la meilleure est sans doute la Lion beer, douce et mousseuse. Pour aller crescendo en alcool, l'arrack fait plus de dégâts. A base de whisky local, il vaut mieux le boire mixé avec de la limonade. Pour le café, grosse déception, il est souvent soluble et sans goût. 

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